And here is a link to notes about the patina, from the same conference.
For a whole bunch of patina information, here is a link to notes by Charles Lewton-Brain.
Over on the foldforming facebook page there were some questions about this fold and the copper patina process, so lets put a little more detail in this post.
The fold is the Eckland #2 and can be found on page 144 of Foldforming, by Charles Lewton-Brain. You can probably see in the photo that only the ends are really 3-dimensional. The entire cuff was originally puffed out, but as Charles teaches, any fold can become a line fold. Just on a whim, this cuff is all hammered flat except for two sections at one end, and one section at the other. The ends are cut round.
As for the patina, it's fumed in ammonia and then painted with hydrogen peroxide, exactly the way Charles demonstrated at the conference, here. Really go see because it illustrates the flexibility of your choices... he used a take-out container because it was on hand... but here is what I'm using:
**and make sure you have proper ventilation***
- Begin with pickled copper. Pickle isn't in the photo but basically you just need very clean copper. Your first time out, use some scrap!
- Wash the copper with dish washing liquid mixed with a drop of ammonia, just to get it even cleaner.
- Pour a little ammonia (I used about 1/2") in the bottom of the Similac container.
- Put the little plastic platform in the container upside-down, right into the ammonia. The platform I used was the bottom of a shampoo bottle. Note that most of the platform is NOT submerged... this is a fuming process not a dunking process.
- Hold your clean copper only by the edges, possibly even with latex gloves on (although I didn't do that) so as not to transfer fingerprints or oils to the piece.
- Dunk your piece in a saltwater solution. I probably used a couple teaspoons of salt in 1/2 cup water but that's completely made up. DON'T sprinkle salt right on the piece. It will mottle the color and can pit the metal. Note: salt is not required, but it speeds up the process. The water IS required, though.
- Place the copper piece onto the (shampoo bottle) platform and close the lid tight.
- In a few hours, take the piece out. There will be a lot of color. Run it under water and gently go over it with a soft toothbrush. Try not to cry as a lot of the color comes right off.
- Repeat steps 5-8 every few hours until you're happy with the color coverage. This one was "finished" in about 2 days. I would call the color a deep teal, I think.
- Optionally at the end, brush on a little diluted hydrogen peroxide. (I didn't actually dilute it here... so play with that mixture as you like.) Those areas will turn green, and the overall effect is kind of a rich ocean blend.
- Wash off your piece right away to stop the process. It can turn black, if I remember correctly...
- My piece isn't clear coated yet but here is a link where Charles describes his favorite products for that.
Update #2: Ten days later tried to use the leftover ammonia in the 'airtight' container, thinking it would work on another piece. No go. It no longer smelled strong and after a few hours there was no color on the piece. Tossed it and poured fresh ammonia, which worked. This was a surprise to me!
Update #3: Here's a little tip -- there are no 2nd chances on step #6. I forgot and put the pieces in dry, and the blue color just puddled up underneath. The piece gets kind of an antique patina instead of blue. At this point it's too late to dunk the piece into saltwater -- it's like starting with a dirty piece, and it just doesn't work. Need to completely clean it up and start again. **However** if you want a bit of an antique patina, give it a try dry :-)
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